Bookended by an elegant bar and the high-energy open kitchen, Costa is glamorous and sweeping. Offerings are restrained and tightly curated. Billed as Italian-inspired seafood, the menu kicks off with several crudo plates, including a bright and briny scallop with passionfruit, avocado, and finger lime. Still, terrestrial dishes, like the ever-so-thin-and-crispy pork Milanese, are every bit as solid.